Wednesday, July 31, 2013

July 31st

It seemed quite a long day because the 2 wheel track was so rough with similar desert conditions all day. We came across several windmills, tanks and bores with cattle enjoying water from a trough. Horses were galloping in the distance, a few camels and kangaroos as well.
The weather is fine and warm with cool nights..just right for sitting around a camp fire.
Tonight we have set up camp in the Nullarbor Muster Grounds at Rawlinna. District activities are held at this venue. There is a large space available for camping with showers and toilets provided. We have been invited to an evening of music and entertainment this coming Saturday but sadly we will have moved further west by then. Rawlinna is on the Trans Continental Rail Line and there is Telstra connection here after 5 days in more remote places. We have been nearly five days coming from Maralinga and this is the first time we have seen other people. Yes, Australia has some very remote areas.
Bricked water tank


Cattle drinking from trough
.
July 30th


Morning fog at sunrise



We woke to fog and a softly coloured sunrise at about 6.30am. Western Australian time seems to have lengthened our days.
The wide, flat and barren lands continue as we travel west across the Great Victoria Desert and through Yurranna which is an uninhabited aboriginal land.There are no sign posts out here except to warn of 1080 
poisoning. We were glad of our GPS to guide us along the correct track. There are many 2 wheel tracks
across the dry land. Cattle and wild horses are obviously grazing..a few dead camels and a few birds, 
all not far from the windmills and bores.
We have set up camp early this evening for showering, washing clothes and making bread.




July 29th

 The arid lands of the Great Victorian Desert have been dominant in the vista today.. Despite the beauty of the glorious star filled sky of last night and the soft coloured sky of dawn, there are few living things to take
the eye. We have driven past thousands of rabbit burrows but we have only seen one rabbit alive..many dead on the ground which have probably fallen to the effects of the calesi virus or a 1080 poisin bait. Very few camels, kangaroos or birds can be seen and only a few small areas of flowers and green shoots which are probably the result of recent rains.
Sadly there are lots of brown beer bottles which, we assume, have been left by workmen as there is evidence of mining exploration.
Despite the dry and remote conditions of the land I can understand how I have been inspired to stitch after visiting similar Australian landscapes. I will post a photo of a stitched piece resulting from a previous visit to the inland.

Sand and Sky

July 28th

Great overnight camp amongst Black Oak trees and Emu bushes in full red blooms. We travelled west through the Mamungari Conservation Park then turned south along a two wheel track which ran for about 100 kms. The country was extremely barren in some places while other areas were treed or covered in lovely blue-grey salt bush. The brightest spot was one small vine of Sturts Desert Pea. We hoped to camp at
Decoration Cave but it was situated in a very rocky limestone area which was devoid of any growth.
 We have eventually found a clump of trees to shelter us a little.
Turning south from Oak Valley Road

Decoration Cave

July 27th

After reluctantly leaving Maralinga, we have had a wonderful drive west along Oak Valley Road.
The bush and flowers are fresh from the rain. The bush is noticeably green compared with drier years when they appeared dry and lifeless. All four of us are interested in the trees and flowers...hopefully we can identify some of the new varieties. I have chosen some leaves for use in fabric dyeing when I have returned home.
Six young boys met us at the corner into the Oak Valley settlement. They were lively and wild and really wanted a ride in our vehicles and even asked to come with us.
Tonight we are camped amongst the bush of this wonderful desert area.

Little boy from Oak Valley Community

Passing a camel on the Oak Valley Road

July 26th..Maralinga

 We had a wonderful day tour of Maralinga. Robin Mathews, the manager, has much information to tell.
The tour took us about 90km with many stops...including bomb sites, Explorer Tieken's well,
Len Beadell's fresh water well, buriel pits for radio active soil, gravel, trucks, aeroplanes and any
other dsangerous items. We noted the bare areas around bomb sites which, after 50 years, had not
re vegetated to the normal growth of the surrounding areas. This was a fascinating and enlightening
trip. A few cassia and acacia blooms were on display after the wonderful rains that had recently fallen.
Water supplies have been renewed with tanks and dams full.

If anyone has read the book 'Maralinga' written by Judy Nunn you will be interested to learn that,
prior to writing this book Judy had visited Maralinga to research some of the mysterious truth about
the experimental Nuclear bombs which were exploded in 1956 & 57. I have begun reading it again to see
how she blended her story with the truth about those dangerous years.

Guide and Manager of Maralinga

Fifty year old bitumen air strip

July 25th

We have camped amongst the bush at the side of the Eyre Highway. After a restless night listening to road trains racing by..we set off, north, across the Nullarbor. I have never seen these plains so green. There is fresh grass and the salt bushes are green rather than grey.
 We learned that there has been 75 mls of rain during the last fortnight.The bush and country side all look wonderful.
Our luncheon break was at Ooldea which is on the Trans Continental Rail Line.
Onward north to Maralinga, the controversial area where test bombs were released during the 1950s It is now clean of radiation danger. John and I were lucky to meet the Manager of Maralinga last year when we travelled this way. Robin Mathews has been working in the area for many years and generously invited us back to Maralinga,
It appears to be a deserted area but there are many interesting places to see. Hot showers have been offered to us so that will be a bonus.
We will tour the vast undulating desert tomorrow, so we are looking
forward to seeing the wider space of Marilinga.

Beth & John on Trans Continental Rail line at Ooldea