July 20^th

We awoke to an overcast morning with a few drops of rain..not only the sky was grey but the bush as well. If a quantity of rain falls the countryside will really love it. Today we saw the first very poor cattle for the trip.

We stopped in Menzies with the idea that there may be a grocery shop..only a Pub shop which keeps very few goods. However internet connection was strong enough for a phone call and a couple of blog postings.

On our way south out of Menzies there was a really smart sculpture which had been inspired by the the inland Australians and made with reverence to Antony Gormley. The artist Silvia Kennedy wanted to make an artwork which represented some of the characters of Menzies.

We came south to Goongarrie which was originally a gold mining area and then a sheep station. It was first known as ‘Roaring Gimlet’ due to the sound of the south westerly winds roaring through the gimlet trees. The  Goongarrie National Park was created in 1978 primarily as a representative area to conserve the flora and fauna of this ecological zone. The track in was easy travelling although it was not the main entrance track. The camp host, Paul, was very helpful. We camped near the old Shearers Cottage so we could light the donkey and heat water for a shower.

The fine rain continued but we decided to walk the 3 km track- ‘ Nganamarta Walk Trail. This took us 45 minutes. It is not spectacular country but having the opportunity to walk through it gave us an idea what the country is really like. One of the points of interest was a shallow old gold mining hole dug through granite and quartz. What a tough way to make money.

Paul returned with information about the area and took us to see a Sandlewood tree which we were not confident of identifying. He also showed us on the map cross country drive on which we could return to Menzies. We will decide in the morning because of the rain. It is nearly 6.00 pm and light rain has been falling for about an hour. The donkey is heating water for the shower which is inside the Cottage. There is no electricity so it will be a shower by torch light.  

Some time later...the shower was excellent with plenty of hot water which actually lasted until morning.

Shearers Cottage with EC parked at the front door.

July 19th

John collecting water at Mt Elvire Rock

A cool morning at nearly -1deg, but the day soon warmed up with a clear blue sky once again.

Sunday Morning With Macca! We rarely listen to Australia All Over when we are at home but we do enjoy it when we are on Safari. This morning Wendy Lugg was interviewed about an ANZAC Exhibition she had curated. It includes the first Red Cross Quilt that was made. Wendy tracked it down to Canada and flew across to bring it back to Australia. She now hopes to be able to buy this quilt for Australian ownership.

It was 42 km from Mt Elvire Homestead out to the Evanston/Menzies Road. This main road appeared to have been watered. We actually met the water tanker and John spoke, by radio, to the driver and asked him why he was watering the road? To keep the dust down, mate, and to keep the road together because of the large haulage trucks using the road. He was watering a 200 km stretch of road. How often do you water? 12 hours per day and 7 days per week.

There are mines in the area..we saw signs for the Macarthur Magnetite Mine. Further on we saw road works in progress..a grader, a water truck and a roller which was driven by a female. The soil was rich red in colour. John chatted to the grader driver who directed us through the grading and watering sections. We followed the Menzies/Sandstone Road which was bitumen and called into Snake Hill Lookout which gave an interesting view of this wide flat area of salt lakes and low bush.

We went in to see the Lake Ballard Art Australia Sculpture Precinct which is 51 kilometres west of the small township of Menzies. This incredible cultural display is situated within the eerie setting of Lake Ballard. They were made by Antony Gormley an internationally known sculptural artist. The work 'Inside Australia' was commissioned to mark the 50th Anniversary of the Perth International Arts Festival in 2003. The location of the display definitely adds to the whole concept. The cast metal figures are quite rusted and had been positioned at intervals across Lake Ballard. We walked out to see them but did not have a close look at each one because the lake was quite wet and muddy. The sculptures were slim male and female figures. We did not really understand them as they had little purpose or meaning to us.

 Before returning to EC we climbed the small island we had walked passed  It was very steep with slithering stones. We both reached the top for a magnificent view of Lake Ballard. Unfortunately on the way down, 5 steps from the bottom I slipped and took a little skin off. I was cross that my care had not avoided this incidence.

Female figure on Lake Ballard with small island in background

Male figure on Salt Lake Ballard

July 18th 

Mt Jackson Abandoned Homestead

Textile Wallhanging 'SALINA'

A lovely morning so we walked on the track for a km or so, returned to the truck and drove another 11 km through the Baladjie Lake Nature Reserve. The early morning bush was so very attractive with numerous Gimlet trees showing off their magnificent copper trunks. Gradually the trees changed to another species with white trunk, then changed back to copper Gimlets. From time to time we could see a large salt lake in the distance.

We followed the map in a northerly direction and went through the Barrier Fence again. The travelling was great with continuing woodlands of beautiful trees. The road took us across an expansive salt lake..an expansive Salina. Salt lakes always fascinate me so much so that I was inspired to make a wallhanging about them..see above

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Mt Jackson has been a mining area but all that remains on the Station now is a derelict stone homestead. Such a shame as hard working people would have spent a lot of money, time and energy into building this home.

It was obvious that a lot of mining has happened in this area. By the quality of some of the roads we think that mining is still happening. We crossed an extremely smooth gravel road with Notices each way warning of NO ACCESS. We could hear machinery and then as we stopped for lunch on top of a rise my phone beeped with some messages. The Telstra waves gave us enough internet connection to send messages and post several blogs..an unexpected benefit.

John was aiming to camp at Elvire Station so on we drove through some more lovely woodlands. The trees we have seen today have really made an impression. They are just so attractive despite the dry climate. We have been able to identify a couple of new eucalypt trees as well.

Eventually we came to Elvire Conservation Park which was formerly a station property. The simple home was completely deserted and the surrounding land looked very barren and unattractive. The only aspect which appealed to us was a Break Away which was spectacular because of its varied and brightly coloured rock face. There were no trees close to where we camped so John was able to attach our clothesline to the rock face where the clothes dried in the late afternoon sun and should catch the morning sun as well.

Mt Elvire Break-Away clothes line

July 17^th

South to Beacon after a lovely campsite at Billburning Rock. We have had a great day, all very interesting and excellent roads to travel on.

Beacon is a very smart well cared for town. The school is quite large as in buildings, but with only 37 pupils in Prep to Year 7. There are 5 part time teachers. I imagine the children are being exposed to a wide education. After completing Year 7, children go off to Boarding School in Perth.

The General Store is very good so we have replenished our food supplies. John filled EC with fuel ..the cheapest we have had at $1.40 per litre.

The Information Centre has wonderful records of all the native trees of the area. We took some time looking over  the details about Eucalypts..in particular Mallee Eucalypts. There are nearly 20 different species. The collection consists of details of pressed flowers and leaves, photos, buds and nuts. All botanical details are recorded as well as the common names used for each tree. This project as well as the Botanical Park Project was developed about 20 years ago. The teachers and pupils at the school grew and planted many of these local trees into a Botanical Park. What a wonderful project for the school and the local community members to work together on.

A natural avenue of Gimlet trees.

After a couple of hours we headed east into ‘Gimlet’ country. These trees are absolutely sensational. I first saw them about 25 years ago, east of Norseman, and eventually made a wall quilt which was inspired by them, particularly the copper trunks. These trees have made our trip today quite spectacular. The bitumen road made its way through wide broad acre wheat crops. The town of Mukinbuden is a progressive little town as well with a camping ground, an IGA store and a Hardware shop.

 We continued on and eventually camped before we reached the town of Bullfinch. Lake Baladjie Nature Reserve has wonderful red soil growing typical Mallee scrub. We have our washing hanging on a line amongst the trees. It is a fine cool and peaceful night.

Gimlet tree showing fluted copper coloured trunk

July 16^th

Farewell to Thundelarra Station after a very peaceful stay. We were quite impressed by the tidiness of the farmyard. Very many Station properties have an enormous amount of old rusty equipment and junk lying around which definitely detract from the appearance.

It was a thrill to see two Major Mitchell Cockatoos fly up as we departed. We have been expecting to see these large white and pink cockatoos in the inland. They are magnificent birds.

Thundelarra Station Homestead

A wide gravel road was a pleasure to drive on. Western Australia do have excellent roads..so many of them are gravel. The road curved through many salty clay pans and some very pretty range country until we came upon ‘Fields Find’ mining centre. We drove around the deserted area, taking note of mullock heaps, the old batteries, pit mines and a 6 metre deep mine shaft. The Cemetery was interesting a s well. The graves had been restored late last century. As always these old and remote cemeteries tell tales of hardship and disaster. Our friend Helen Brock can remember visiting this area as a child. I wonder what it was like then..about 60 years ago. How many people lived and worked these mines. We found it an interesting place to visit.

We noticed quite a number of Kurrajong trees among the mulgas. Some were growing on the road verge and the grader had carefully graded around them. They must be significant!

Payne’s Find Roadhouse was the next stop for us. A very simple shop with only a very few supplies and yes. I found a small packet of Liptons teabags which will last John a few days..we have saved disaster!

Several roads went south from Payne’s Find and eventually we found the one that led to Beacon. What a pretty drive as it led off beside Moore’s Lake. Or was it a mirage we could see. Distant water in the desert is quite disconcerting. This mirage even had a reflection of trees on the bank. Dry station properties consist of a lot of large salt pans or Salina (another name for salt lake) have a lot of Samphire growing on them. The colours are soft green/grey to s deep red/purple. It can be steamed and eaten as a vegetable. Maybe I did not need to buy that last lot of broccoli!

John spotted a Quandong tree. He has treid to grow them at Milawa without much success so he collected a bag of nuts to try again. There was fruit on the tree. I hoped that I would not be asked to make Quandong jam while out here. Many years ago when we were touring the Kimberleys we found a  wonderful crop of Rosellas. I had never heard of Rosella plants only Rosella birds. Anyway my friend Del and I made jam from this fruit. The boys had fun weighing the sugar and of course what jars would we put the finished jam in. It was delicious on our morning toast.

Eventually we came to the STATE BARRIER FENCE. It was constructed during the late 1950s to keep emus, goats and wild dogs out of farming areas. It was called a Vermin Proof Fence.

Our destination for the day was a very attractive camping area at Billiburning Rock which we climbed late in the day. It is a large rock area with smaller rocks scattered over it. The view from the top showed the surrounding large area of wheat crops. It is mallee country similar to the Victorian Mallee.

On the summit of Billiburning Rock

Foe several days we have been noticing a tree which we are not familiar with. Today our lunch spot was amongst a number of these lovely eucalypts. This evening John has identified it as eucalyptus loxophleba. It can grow as a tree or a mallee form with a lignotuber. This is exciting for me as it is different tree for me to select leaves for dyeing. 

July 15th

The Blue Sky has returned and the rain has moved eastward. How lucky for us as dry weather is much easier when you are camping.

The Mullewa area is undulating with crops growing well this season. Mullewa is a small township with few facilities..in fact the poorest Super Market I have seen. Hope we don't starve! John may have to drink green tea though. We went to the Info centre where the lady was very helpful and was able to identify a couple of the flowers in my photos. She also told us where to go to see the famous Wreath Flowers or Wreath Lechenaultia. Off we went to Pindar to find them. It is very early in the wildflower season for the wreaths to be very large and colourful. However we did see some lovely examples on the side of the road.

The roads are sealed so the driving to Yalgoo was made very easy. This little place is without many services either. From here we headed south to Payne's Find which is a Mining area. Along the way we saw the Golden Grove Mine. A large aeroplane was coming in to land..presumably returning staff to the mine after time off. The mine was near to Gnows Nest Range which consists of very rocky and rough 'jump ups' This evening I am probably linked into the Internet connection made available by this mine.

The roadside did not show so many flowers, in fact it was very bare in places. As we travelled over hill crests we could not help remarking 'what a big flat country this is!' All we could see was a landscape of low bushes.

The map noted that Thundelarra Station took Homestays and Campers so we drove the 11 km off the main road to the Station Homestead. The home was a modern 'rammed earth' building. The Station Manager's wife answered our knock. No, sadly they do not take Homestays at the moment, However she was very happy for us to camp in the Home Paddock. Evidently these new managers have only been in residence for about 10 days..what a mammoth task managing a big outback station.

Wreath Flower

Detail of Wreath Flower

July 14^th

We expected to spend the whole day filling in time at Murchison Camping Ground , but by midday the word went round ‘The roads are open’ All campers were up, up and away as we were. I finished the washing and drying of sheets and towels. We had a take-away fish and chips for lunch and we went on our way as well. In total we had spent 24 hours at the settlement.

The road to Mullewa was bitumen for 2/3 of the way and good gravel for the rest. The causeway over the Sandford River was washed away, so we used the recently de-commissioned bridge to cross the river.  

Hakea recurva

The scenery was rather grey and uninteresting apart from a few flowers as we neared Mullewa. After crossing the Hacket Creek we turned into the Urawa Nature Reserve and drove a little way along the track by the river and camped the night. The bush was rather barren but there were some flowers, several of which I had not seen before.  The sky looks brighter so we hope the rain has moved further away.

PS The above Hakea which I photographed and showed the very knowledgeable lady at the Mullewa Info Centre was identified. It has 10cm long spiky and strong leaves. A warning the keep away! It has a beautiful flower though.